September 6, 2014

DAILY ROUTINE: DIARIES OF A WANNABE SURFER #1

My first attempt at surfing


After living in San Diego for more than a year, I feel like I am finally - maybe- ready to talk about my first encounter with a surfboard. Consider yourself warned when I say that it didn't end well but that doesn't mean you shouldn't read it. It's the true (I swear) story of a silly Belgian girl's attempt at conquering the California waves.

It all started that same summer we took our road trip along the West Coast: in the glorious year of 2011. I've talked about nature in California, the weather and the beach but I left one part out... the water sports. Californians love their workouts and what better way to get stay in shape ladies than to elegantly glide along a massive wave? I L-O-V-E the water so naturally I was in for something that looked quite cool. Enter my teacher Nick. You might know him as the husband, but he used to be a pretty good surfer back in high school (or so I've been told, proof has yet to be given). 

hubris

While I consider myself a good swimmer, the ocean is definitely at a whole other level than the pool and I had very little experience with such a force of nature. Also, since my very patient teacher only owned a shortboard I decided to just try it, despite some warnings. One thing to know about shortboards is that there's a reason beginners don't start on them. Oh and we might have gone straight past those white waves for beginners too... That's probably the reason I ended up frustrated as hell after that first session. The fact that I completely 'ate it' as they say, is an understatement. If you want to know what being trapped inside a washing machine feels like, try getting beaten by one of those big waves. Unfortunately my competitive nature kicked in and I really did not want to give up until I could sort of stand up for more than 1 second. Which obviously didn't happen. I ended up with chafed knees (and some pretty scars to prove that) from the waxed board and couldn't wear jeans for a week because that hurt too much. Oh, karma...  

renewed energy

While I didn't immediately give surfing another try, I've started practicing again these past couple of weeks (admittedly, we mostly went body-boarding, but still...). I didn't grow up near the ocean, but I do understand its appeal now. We bought a cheap foam surfboard at Costco (amen for that store) for me to learn and even though that's still not going great, I'm mostly enjoying it. La Jolla Shores has perfect baby waves to start with and on an average weekend you can admire my exquisite skills of falling on my face there. This week I even stood up for a few seconds (definitely three). My arms and back are sore in places I didn't even know I needed for surfing and I should probably start doing push-ups to remedy that. I realise that it's inevitable to look like and idiot for a while before you get better and I thought I might chronicle that process for you...  


Have you ever tried surfing? Any tips?  

6 comments :

  1. I would LOVE to try out surfing! Well done on your progress :).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kate! Hope you can experience it too someday ;)

      Delete
  2. A part of me would love to try surfing but the other part of me is totally terrified. Awesome on you that you didn't let that first experience scare you away! I think one time of 'eating it' would definitely have scared me off for good, sadly!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is a bit scary, but I guess I'm just really stubborn! And it's easier and a lot more fun if you actually start out on smaller waves... baby steps are the key (I'm doing that now) ;)

      Delete
  3. Wow! I'm glad you survived and nothing really terrible happened! I was stuck under the waves before, too, and I know exactly what you mean by being in a washing machine, I also got lots of pebbles hitting my head with each wave, pushing me to the bottom.... brrrr not the best memories.
    I hope you take it slower and will eventually get on top of it (haha puns!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh god, your experience sounds a lot scarier. I'm glad you are ok! Luckily I was never in any real danger since Nick was right there with me and we weren't close to any reefs or strong currents... but still the ocean can be unpredictable! I am taking it slower now (maybe the years have given me some wisdom ;) I'll let you know once I actually do get on top of it (loved that pun!)

      Delete

Thanks for leaving a message!

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...